- My Travel Shoes
Perched high above the dramatic El Tajo Gorge in Andalusia, Ronda has long carried the poetic nickname the City of Dreams. Writers, artists, and travellers have been enchanted for centuries. Poet Rainer Maria Rilke once declared, “I have sought everywhere the city of my dreams, and I have finally found it in Ronda.”
From our first glimpse, we understood why. Ronda feels at once timeless and alive, where breathtaking scenery blends seamlessly with centuries of history. Even with just one day to explore, the town left us enchanted and wanting more.
A Walk Through History
Ronda is one of Spain’s oldest towns, with roots stretching back to the 6th century BC. Romans built the fortified settlement of Acinipo nearby, and the Moors later transformed Ronda into a thriving cultural center, leaving behind treasures like the Arab Baths and Mondragón Palace. After the Christian Reconquista, Ronda became part of the Kingdom of Castile, its streets and architecture evolving into a layered mosaic of influences.
By the 19th century, Ronda became a romantic stop on the Grand Tour, attracting legends like Hemingway and Orson Welles, who drew inspiration from its 18th-century bullring and dramatic landscapes. Despite being one of Andalusia’s most visited towns today, Ronda has preserved its charm - no high-rises or sprawling resorts here, just whitewashed walls, cobbled streets, and endless views.
Standing Above El Tajo Gorge
No picture prepares you for the moment you first see the El Tajo Gorge. Nearly 120 meters deep and carved by the Guadalevín River, the chasm splits the city in two, connected by the Puente Nuevo, or “new” bridge, completed in 1793 after more than three decades of construction.
We spent the afternoon circling viewpoints, pausing at plazas and terraces to watch how the bridge and cliffs framed the city differently from every angle. The gorge is more than a backdrop - it’s Ronda's breathtaking divide. If you only see one sight here, make it this, but allow extra time; it’s impossible to stop lingering.
Descending Into History: Casa del Rey Moro
From the opposite side of the gorge, we spotted a platform at the bottom, which led us to La Casa del Rey Moro. Despite its name, the palace, now in a state of disrepair, never housed a Moorish king. Rather, the connection to Moorish history is in the water mine, La Mina, a 14th-century tunnel carved into the rock that descends more than 200 steps to the river below.
Descending into the cool, damp passageway felt like stepping back in time. Emerging by the river, surrounded by cliffs, offered a rare moment of calm - until the steep climb back up! If the stair climb isn’t for you, the multi-level gardens and gorge views are still worth the visit.
Wandering Arches, Streets, and Terraces
From the mine, we passed under the Felipe V Arch, once a main entrance to the city. Beyond it, streets felt quintessentially Andalusian - cobbled lanes, orange trees, wrought-iron balconies. I could picture springtime with terra-cotta pots overflowing with bright geraniums.
Eventually, we found a terrace restaurant clinging to the edge of the gorge. Tapas never tasted better - paired with local wine, a view of the Puente Nuevo, and the hum of Spanish conversation.
Why Stay Longer in Ronda
Our day in Ronda was short, but the town deserves more than a day trip. Beyond the gorge and bridge, there’s plenty to explore:
History lovers can visit the Arab Baths, Mondragón Palace, and Spain’s oldest bullring.
Nature seekers can hike into the valley or try the new Desfiladero del Tajo Walkway (opened in 2024), which descends into the gorge with dramatic views of the Puente Nuevo.
Romantics can wander plazas at dusk, linger in hidden courtyards, or watch sunsets over the Serranía de Ronda.
Staying overnight allows you to enjoy Ronda without the crowds. Evenings are quieter, mornings still - perfect for slow strolls and coffee in local cafés.
Practical Tips for Visiting Ronda
Getting there: Ronda is an easy day trip from Málaga, Seville, or Granada, by car, train, or tour. Our scenic hour-and-a-half drive from Seville was effortless. Tours often include stops at other White Towns (Pueblos Blancos).
Getting around: The town is compact and walkable, but wear comfortable shoes- especially if descending into the gorge. The tourism office near the bullring offers maps and English-speaking staff to share tips.
Tickets: The bono turístico (€12) covers attractions like Mondragón Palace, Arab Baths, and the Puente Nuevo Museum. Available at the tourism office or online.
Timing: To avoid crowds, visit early or stay overnight.
Hemingway, Welles, and Ronda in Literature
At Ronda’s Parque Alameda del Tajo, statues of Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles honour two legends deeply tied to the city. Welles, a lifelong bullfighting fan, loved Ronda so much that his ashes were laid to rest on matador Antonio Ordóñez’s estate. Hemingway, who adored bullfighting, drew on Ronda’s people, history, and landscapes in his writing.
Books to read (click on title to read more about these books, including reviews):
Death in the Afternoon (1932) – Hemingway praises Ronda’s historic bullring as a place where the corrida remains pure - considered one of the best books ever written about bullfighting.
The Dangerous Summer (1985) – Chronicles the 1959 bullfighting season, focusing on the rivalry between Luis Miguel Dominguín and Ronda’s Antonio Ordóñez.
For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940) – Inspired by stories from Ronda, including wartime executions in El Tajo Gorge.
Ronda Reflections
On our February visit, even a brief afternoon revealed why Ronda is called the City of Dreams. Between staggering gorge views, winding cobblestone lanes, and a deep sense of history, Ronda felt both romantic and unforgettable.
If there's a next time, we’ll stay longer. But even in just one day, Ronda left us with memories we’ll treasure - and dreams of returning.
