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If you spend any time on the Côte d’Azur, there’s a good chance someone will insist that you must try a Pan Bagnat. And honestly, they’re right. This humble-looking sandwich is one of Nice’s most iconic foods, a portable burst of Provençal sunshine that tells the whole story of the region’s flavors in every messy, olive-oil-dripping bite.


The origins of the Pan Bagnat go back centuries, to a time when workers, fishermen, and families needed something hearty, affordable, and nourishing to take with them throughout the day. Its name literally means “bathed bread,” which gives you a hint of what’s coming: this is not a delicate sandwich. It’s a Mediterranean power move with simple ingredients, bold flavors, and absolutely no fear of olive oil. In fact, the sandwich was basically invented to use up day-old bread by soaking it in oil until it softened again. Nothing wasted. Everything delicious.


When we visited in January, I arrived with the Pan Bagnat already on my must-try list. We tasted a few from the local patisserie in Villefranche, but the one that stayed with me was from Ma Première Boulangerie in La Turbie. It was everything I’d hoped for: bright, salty, and generously soaked in olive oil. We ate them on our outings - from the coastal trail at Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat to the hilltop village of Sainte-Agnès, each bite perfectly matching the Mediterranean views around us.


Pan Bagnat
Lunch break during a hike on the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat Coastal Path
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Coastal Hiking Path along the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat Peninsula: a popular walking route with stunning sea views and access to various beaches and coves.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat Hiking Trail
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
Hidden Cove along the Hiking Trail on Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
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Sentire Littoral - Coastal Walking Path Along the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat Peninsula
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Villefranche-su-Mer from Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat Coastal Trail

At its core, a Pan Bagnat is essentially the salade niçoise turned into a sandwich, but the real ones, the ones you get at markets or tiny boulangeries in Nice, are a bit more rustic and far more opinionated than the tourist-friendly versions. A proper one starts with a round pain de campagne or a small boule. The bread gets sliced horizontally and generously drizzled with high-quality olive oil. No butter. No mayonnaise. Olive oil is the heart and soul of the whole thing.


Then comes the filling, which feels like a greatest-hits playlist of southern French ingredients: ripe tomatoes, boiled eggs, raw onion sliced whisper-thin, anchovies or tuna (sometimes both, and locals have very strong opinions about which is “correct”), Niçoise olives, radishes, basil, and crisp green peppers. Everything is seasoned simply - salt, pepper, olive oil, and then the sandwich is allowed to rest so all the flavors sink into the bread. The result is a beautiful, controlled chaos of juicy vegetables, salty punchy fish, and rich oil-soaked bread that somehow manages to be both refreshing and deeply satisfying.


Visually, it’s not trying to win any beauty pageants. It’s chunky, colorful, and slightly messy, the kind of sandwich whose fillings try to sneak out the sides as soon as you pick it up. But that’s part of its charm. When you unwrap it and see the bright reds, greens, and yellows peeking through the olive oil-kissed bread, you immediately know you’re in for something good.


Taste-wise, a Pan Bagnat is bright, bold, and confidently Mediterranean. The tomatoes bring sweetness, the olives bring brine, the eggs add creaminess, and the anchovies and tuna deliver that savory hit that keeps everything grounded. Every bite is layered and complex, and somehow the olive oil ties the whole thing together like a citrusy, herbal ribbon. It’s the kind of sandwich that feels like a small meal and a small vacation at the same time.


In Nice, it’s wildly popular. You’ll see it in bakeries, markets, beach snack stands (not in January, unfortunately) and even at home picnics in parks or at the port. Locals eat it for lunch, hikers take it on the trails, and food lovers hunt down the “best” one (which is a slightly hopeless exercise because everyone in Nice insists their favorite spot is the true original).


So why try it? Honestly, because it captures the spirit of Nice so well. It’s unfussy, sun-drenched, and incredibly flavourful. It’s one of the few dishes that genuinely tastes like the landscape it comes from; the sea, the gardens, and the olive groves. It’s also wonderfully portable. You can grab one, wander through Vieux Nice, sit by the water, and just let the whole Mediterranean mood wash over you.


In a city famous for glamour, the Pan Bagnet is refreshingly real. It’s proof that sometimes the most unforgettable food is the simplest. And once you’ve had a good one, you’ll never look at “just a sandwich” the same way again.


Pan Bagnat
Picnic Lunch in Sainte-Agnes
Ma Premiere Boulangerie
Sainte-Agnes: Picturesque medieval village 800 meters above the Mediterranean Sea, the highest village in the area, with views of Menton and Italy in the background
Ma Premiere Boulangerie
Spectacular View from Sainte-Agnes: Pan Bagnat (from Ma Premiere Boulangerie in La Turbie)
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Sainte-Agnes

A local association in Nice is dedicated to preserving and promoting the Pan Bagnat. Here's a list of authentic incredients according to the organization.


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If you’ve ever dreamed of walking the red carpet in Cannes, let me tell you a secret: you don’t need a designer gown or a starring role in the next big blockbuster. You just need a pair of comfortable shoes, a bib number, and a willingness to climb an astonishing number

of stairs.


That’s how, weeks into our winter trip on the Côte d’Azur, I found myself doing something very new: participating in the 2025 Cannes Urban Trail, an annual running/walking event that winds through the city’s most iconic and historic sites.


Cannes Urban Trail
Map: Cannes Urban Trail 9 km Walk

Cannes sits on the Mediterranean coast, roughly halfway between Monaco and Saint-Tropez, with 15 km of shoreline, including 7.6 km of sandy beaches.


Video Credit: Cannes Urban Trail

Was I a marathon runner?

Absolutely not.


Did I register before leaving Canada?

Yes. I wasn’t sure how much walking my beau and I might do together on this trip (life happens, things change).


Did I imagine that signing up - my first time ever wearing a runner’s bib - might be a fun way to see the city and maybe meet a few people?

Sure.

But not a single event volunteer spoke English. So, I settled for smiling enthusiastically, pretending I knew exactly what was going on, and clutching my event shirt like a souvenir of success.


Welcome to Cannes… urban-trail style.


Why I Signed Up


Before arriving in France, I researched hiking clubs. I wanted a way to explore Cannes on my own, and that’s when I stumbled across the Cannes Urban Trail. It takes place every January and offers options for everyone - from a hardcore 27 km run to a 1.4 km kids’ race.


While I’ve often fantasized about running a marathon, being built like a runner doesn’t automatically qualify me to be one. So, I chose the 9 km walk: proudly untimed, mercifully low-pressure, and conveniently absent from any official results board.


Honestly, that’s a blessing. Had I been brave (or foolish) enough to join the 9 km Run, I would’ve finished… second last. And only because the very last person probably stopped for snacks (handed out by volunteers along the route).


Race(?) Day


We were staying in Villefranche-sur-Mer, so I set an early alarm, woke to a glowing Mediterranean sunrise, grabbed a quick breakfast, and we drove 45 minutes along the A8 toward Cannes. No traffic. No parking issues. Was this a miracle?


With time to spare, naturally, we stopped for a cappuccino and croissant.


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Cannes, France

Registration was near the iconic Palais des Festivals. With my bib and T-shirt in hand, I joined hundreds of participants gathered on the beach. The pre-event atmosphere buzzed with cold Mediterranean wind, deep golden sand, rolling waves, and that anticipatory excitement that always feels bigger than the event itself.


I felt the adrenaline of a marathon runner - despite wearing nothing but my favourite walking shoes - and layers, including a bulky puffer vest under my t-shirt.


Eventually, the walkers were summoned, and off we went.


Douglas immediately set out in search of the perfect restaurant terrace on Rue Félix Faure to do what he does best: people-watch and soak up the sun. Win-win.


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Cannes Urban Trail Registration

Cannes

Cannes

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Cannes: A Tourist Route… If Your Guide Loves Sand and Stairs


The course, as it turns out, was not designed by someone fond of flat sidewalks.

Our route went something like this:


  • soft, deep, energy-sapping sand

  • a sidewalk stroll past a row of shiny yachts - Esplanade Pantiero

  • more sandy beach - Plage du Midi (so much deep sand!)

  • an uphill climb - with sand in my shoes

  • many, many stairs

  • through a building (the library - I was tempted to stop and browse)

  • more uphill

  • a rocky trail through the woods

  • down another set of stairs

  • through Le Suquet, Cannes’ historic neighbourhood

  • and finally, back toward the legendary Palais des Festivals


Cannes Urban Trail

Cannes Urban Trail
Cannes Urban Trail 9 km Walk

And all along the way, runners from longer distances breezed past me as though gravity did not apply to them.


I attempted conversation with fellow walkers, but no one spoke English. At times I wondered if someone had secretly added a scavenger-hunt component.


We “visited”:


Where students from around the world come to perfect their French. I briefly imagined how much smoother this trip might be if I enrolled. Registration is open year-round ...


Villa Rothschild

Built in 1881, now a public media library. Elegant. Grand. Did I stop to browse?No, this was a serious event, and I had sand in my socks.


Notre-Dame-d’Espérance

A 16th-century Gothic-Renaissance gem perched high on a hill with panoramic views over town and sea. Worth every uphill breath.


Hôtel de Ville (City Hall)

A Beaux-Arts beauty once known as the Hôtel des Anges. I snapped a mental photo - too focused on not tripping to take an actual one.


My Red-Carpet Moment


The finish line was anything but ordinary.


As we approached the Palais des Festivals, home of the famous Cannes Film Festival, I suddenly saw the red carpet. The red carpet. The one celebrities climb in gowns worth more than my car.


I was giddy.


I power-walked (ran?) up the steps, entered the iconic Louis Lumière Auditorium, busted out some (mental-only) dance moves across the stage, then dashed back outside and down the red carpet, through a giant Christmas tree (décor, not real), across ANOTHER red carpet, and under an inflatable FINISH arch.


Time: 1.5 hours

Snack stops: Zero. (The last-place 9 km Runner probably enjoyed a few.)


I collected my wooden medal, feeling ridiculously pleased with myself.


Douglas, of course, had missed my triumphant finish while enjoying his espresso. Naturally.

So, I called him, he returned, and, because I knew he’d want photos, I repeated the entire red-carpet routine again.


Oscar-winning performance?


Probably.


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Palais des Festivals

My Travel Shoes
Palais des Festivals

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Finish Line - Cannes Urban Trail

Why It Felt Special


I’d never joined an event like this while travelling, and I’d certainly never worn a runner’s bib, which promptly earned me a new nickname from Douglas: "3047".


I walked up and down stairs built for glamorous people. And I loved every moment.Not because it was easy, but because it was new.


As it turned out, we did a ton of walking on this trip and explored several towns in the region, including Cannes. We’d even done a bike tour three weeks earlier. I could have easily skipped the Urban Trail event, but I’m so glad I didn’t.


Travel, at its best, nudges us out of our comfort zone.


It invites us to learn, explore, stretch (sometimes literally, as my calves will attest). The Cannes Urban Trail let me see the city in a way I never would have otherwise - past beaches and through iconic buildings, through forests and historic plazas, over hills and into neighbourhoods where Saturday-morning café patios are their own kind of culture.


It reminded me that you don’t have to be an athlete to try something new. You just need curiosity… and, ideally, good insoles.


Final Thoughts


Would I do it again?


In a heartbeat.


The event was wonderfully organized, scenic, somewhat challenging, and unlike any “tour” I’ve ever taken. For a mere 19 euros, I got to play, briefly, at being both a marathoner and a Cannes star, and I even received official photos afterward.


If you ever find yourself in Cannes in January, check out the Cannes Urban Trail. Or next time you’re travelling, dare yourself to sign up for something unfamiliar - a walk, a workshop, a class… maybe even a trail event with sand, stairs, wind, and a red-carpet finale.


You might surprise yourself.


I certainly did.


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If You Go: Cannes Urban Trail


Event: Cannes Urban Trail

When: Usually held in January


Route Options:


  • Le Grand Cannois: 27 km Run (timed)

  • Le Cannes Urban Trail: 16 km Run (timed)

  • Le Petit Cannois:  9 km Run (timed)

  • Le Cannes Urban Walk:  9 km Walk (untimed)

  • Le Pitchoun Cannois (kids):  1.4 km / 2.5 km


Highlights: La Croisette, Plage du Midi, Villa Rothschild, Notre-Dame-d’Espérance, and the Palais des Festivals


Tip: Bring comfortable shoes and water. The terrain changes from sand to cobblestones to steep steps.


 

Marina and Palais des Festivals: Cannes, France
Marina and Palais des Festivals: Cannes, France

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Cannes Bike Tour

One of the many film-inspired Murals in Cannes
One of the many film-inspired Murals in Cannes
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Perched high above the dramatic El Tajo Gorge in Andalusia, Ronda has long carried the poetic nickname the City of Dreams. Writers, artists, and travellers have been enchanted for centuries. Poet Rainer Maria Rilke once declared,

“I have sought everywhere the city of my dreams, and I have finally found it in Ronda.”

From our first glimpse, we understood why. Ronda feels at once timeless and alive, where breathtaking scenery blends seamlessly with centuries of history. Even with just one day to explore, the town left us enchanted and wanting more.


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A Walk Through History


Ronda is one of Spain’s oldest towns, with roots stretching back to the 6th century BC. Romans built the fortified settlement of Acinipo nearby, and the Moors later transformed Ronda into a thriving cultural center, leaving behind treasures like the Arab Baths and Mondragón Palace. After the Christian Reconquista, Ronda became part of the Kingdom of Castile, its streets and architecture evolving into a layered mosaic of influences.


By the 19th century, Ronda became a romantic stop on the Grand Tour, attracting legends like Hemingway and Orson Welles, who drew inspiration from its 18th-century bullring and dramatic landscapes. Despite being one of Andalusia’s most visited towns today, Ronda has preserved its charm - no high-rises or sprawling resorts here, just whitewashed walls, cobbled streets, and endless views.


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Standing Above El Tajo Gorge


No picture prepares you for the moment you first see the El Tajo Gorge. Nearly 120 meters deep and carved by the Guadalevín River, the chasm splits the city in two, connected by the Puente Nuevo, or “new” bridge, completed in 1793 after more than three decades of construction.


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We spent the afternoon circling viewpoints, pausing at plazas and terraces to watch how the bridge and cliffs framed the city differently from every angle. The gorge is more than a backdrop - it’s Ronda's breathtaking divide. If you only see one sight here, make it this, but allow extra time; it’s impossible to stop lingering.


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Descending Into History: Casa del Rey Moro


From the opposite side of the gorge, we spotted a platform at the bottom, which led us to La Casa del Rey Moro. Despite its name, the palace, now in a state of disrepair, never housed a Moorish king. Rather, the connection to Moorish history is in the water mine, La Mina, a 14th-century tunnel carved into the rock that descends more than 200 steps to the river below.


Descending into the cool, damp passageway felt like stepping back in time. Emerging by the river, surrounded by cliffs, offered a rare moment of calm - until the steep climb back up! If the stair climb isn’t for you, the multi-level gardens and gorge views are still worth the visit.


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Wandering Arches, Streets, and Terraces


From the mine, we passed under the Felipe V Arch, once a main entrance to the city. Beyond it, streets felt quintessentially Andalusian - cobbled lanes, orange trees, wrought-iron balconies. I could picture springtime with terra-cotta pots overflowing with bright geraniums.


Eventually, we found a terrace restaurant clinging to the edge of the gorge. Tapas never tasted better - paired with local wine, a view of the Puente Nuevo, and the hum of Spanish conversation.


My Travel Shoes

My Travel Shoes

Why Stay Longer in Ronda


Our day in Ronda was short, but the town deserves more than a day trip. Beyond the gorge and bridge, there’s plenty to explore:


  • History lovers can visit the Arab Baths, Mondragón Palace, and Spain’s oldest bullring.

  • Nature seekers can hike into the valley or try the new Desfiladero del Tajo Walkway (opened in 2024), which descends into the gorge with dramatic views of the Puente Nuevo.

  • Romantics can wander plazas at dusk, linger in hidden courtyards, or watch sunsets over the Serranía de Ronda.


Staying overnight allows you to enjoy Ronda without the crowds. Evenings are quieter, mornings still - perfect for slow strolls and coffee in local cafés.


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Practical Tips for Visiting Ronda


  • Getting there: Ronda is an easy day trip from Málaga, Seville, or Granada, by car, train, or tour. Our scenic hour-and-a-half drive from Seville was effortless. Tours often include stops at other White Towns (Pueblos Blancos).

  • Getting around: The town is compact and walkable, but wear comfortable shoes- especially if descending into the gorge. The tourism office near the bullring offers maps and English-speaking staff to share tips.

  • Tickets: The bono turístico (€12) covers attractions like Mondragón Palace, Arab Baths, and the Puente Nuevo Museum. Available at the tourism office or online.

  • Timing: To avoid crowds, visit early or stay overnight.


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Hemingway, Welles, and Ronda in Literature


At Ronda’s Parque Alameda del Tajo, statues of Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles honour two legends deeply tied to the city. Welles, a lifelong bullfighting fan, loved Ronda so much that his ashes were laid to rest on matador Antonio Ordóñez’s estate. Hemingway, who adored bullfighting, drew on Ronda’s people, history, and landscapes in his writing.



Books to read about Ronda (click on title to read more about these books, including reviews):


The Dangerous Summer (1985)


Chronicles the 1959 bullfighting season, focusing on the rivalry between Luis Miguel Dominguín and Ronda’s Antonio Ordóñez.

For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940)


Inspired by stories from Ronda, including wartime executions in El Tajo Gorge.

Death in the Afternoon (1932)


Hemingway praises Ronda’s historic bullring as a place where the corrida remains pure - considered one of the best books ever written about bullfighting.




Ronda Reflections


On our February visit, even a brief afternoon revealed why Ronda is called the City of Dreams. Between staggering gorge views, winding cobblestone lanes, and a deep sense of history, Ronda felt both romantic and unforgettable.


If there's a next time, we’ll stay longer. But even in just one day, Ronda left us with memories we’ll treasure - and dreams of returning.


Sites to see in Ronda (February 2024)
Sites to see in Ronda (February 2024)
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