Lake Louise: A Day That Tested My Legs and Filled My Soul
- My Travel Shoes
- Feb 3, 2023
- 3 min read
Updated: 3 days ago
Some travel days blur together, but others stay with you. They’re usually the ones that challenge you a little, surprise you, and remind you why you travel in the first place. For me, one of those days was spent at Lake Louise, in the heart of the Canadian Rockies in Banff National Park.
Lake Louise is world-famous for its turquoise water, Victoria Glacier, and the grand Fairmont Château sitting proudly at its edge. It’s the kind of place that appears on postcards and guidebook covers yet still feels almost unreal when you’re standing there in person.
We arrived early, before the first buses rolled in, when the air was crisp and the lake perfectly still. We rented a canoe and paddled quietly across the glassy surface, the sound of our oars echoing softly against the mountains. Out in the middle of the lake, we stopped to eat our packed breakfast sandwiches - a simple meal with a million-dollar view. From the water, away from the crowds, Lake Louise felt calm and private, as if we had the whole place to ourselves.
When we returned to shore, we laced up our hiking shoes and started the climb to Lake Agnes. The trail wound through forest and opened to reveal the Lake Agnes Tea House, a small log cabin beside the alpine lake. Built in 1904 by the Canadian Pacific Railway, it’s still run by a local family. The workers spend their multi-day shifts in staff accommodations. They backpack up the mountain with supplies, bake fresh goods and carry garbage back down with them. We took a break there for tea and snacks, sitting on the porch and taking in the scenery. It’s the kind of place that feels like it belongs to another time – simple and utterly charming.
After resting, we continued up to the top of the Big Beehive, a mountain that earns its name from its massive dome-like shape. The trail is challenging with a series of switchbacks and grew steeper near the top. By the time we reached the summit, we were rewarded with one of the most incredible views I’ve ever seen - Lake Louise, far below, gleaming in the sun. From that height, it felt quiet and still, the lake a perfect turquoise mirror framed by mountains.
That evening, we rewarded ourselves with dinner at the Château Lake Louise, looking out at the same view we’d seen from above earlier in the day. The lake was calm again, the colours softening as the sun dropped behind the peaks. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.
In the years since, Lake Louise has become even busier and full of bus tours and crowds, but I’ll always remember that day for the peace we found by stepping away from it all. The morning on the water, the hike to the Tea House, and the quiet at the top of the Big Beehive made it one of those rare days that stays with you. Maybe that’s what makes certain travel days so special - they ask a little more of us, and in return, they give us something lasting.
Note: There are several other remarkable trails worth exploring here, like Devil’s Thumb and the Plain of Six Glaciers. When planning your visit to Lake Louise, be sure to arrive as early as possible since parking can be a challenge or, better yet, you can take a bus from Banff that will take you right to the Chateau.
Read more about visiting the Canadian Rockies in the summertime.
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